Er-leben im Herzen Rumäniens
Perhaps you know this moment: You are traveling in Romania and have discovered this one, perfect piece of land. Away from the hustle and bustle, surrounded by untouched nature and with a breathtaking view. The perfect place to build a house and enjoy life on site to the fullest. Continue reading “Living on Site: The Bureaucratic Hurdle of Building in the Outer Zone”
Hermannstadt, or Sibiu as it is called in Romanian, is undoubtedly a cultural center and a magnet for visitors from all over Europe. The gently renovated alleys, the large squares, and the lively hustle and bustle invite You to linger. But those who seek the true, original Transylvania must leave the beaten tourist paths. Only a relatively short drive away from the pulsating city, a place hides in a gentle hilly landscape where time seems to have stood still: the valley of Urwegen, often also mentioned in the context of Apold.
This travel report takes You to a place of silence. A place that tells of a volatile past and, for me as a photographer, represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration.
The history of Urwegen is deeply rooted in the settlement of Transylvania by German-speaking immigrants, the Transylvanian Saxons. As in so many villages in the region, life here over the centuries was characterized by hard agricultural work and the constant threat of external enemies. To protect themselves from Ottoman and Tatar raids, the villagers began to fortify their church in the Middle Ages.
Urwegen holds an architectural and historical peculiarity: The complex is one of the last preserved Gräfenburgs (Count’s castles) in Transylvania. Originally built as the residence of the local nobles – the so-called Gräfen – it was only taken over and further expanded by the village community over time.
A fortified church was created. High ring walls, defense towers, and loopholes still bear witness to the unconditional will to defend the community. The church was not only the spiritual center but, in case of emergency, the last refuge for the entire village. For generations, the complex was maintained, expanded, and repaired until the massive geopolitical changes of the 20th century altered the face of the village forever.
With the mass exodus of the Transylvanian Saxons after the political changes of 1989/1990 in Romania, many villages were left almost deserted. In Urwegen, too, this turning point is clearly felt. The fortified church, once the pulsating center of a lively community, now stands mostly silent and imposing in the landscape.
The current situation is a mix of melancholic decay and hopeful preservation. While some parts of the ring wall cannot hide the traces of time and weather, there are always efforts by local initiatives, foundations, and former residents to secure the structure. The roof of the church was secured in the past to prevent water penetration. A walk through the courtyard of the fortress is like a journey into the past. You can literally feel the history in the old, hand-hewn stones and the massive oak wood of the battlements.
As a photographer, I am always looking for motifs that speak their own language and convey emotions. Urwegen offers a fantastic backdrop for this. Here are my preferred photo spots:
Arrival from Hermannstadt (Sibiu): The drive with Your own vehicle or a rental car takes just over an hour, depending on the exact route and road conditions. Leave Sibiu in a westerly direction. The last few kilometers lead over easily navigable country roads that wind picturesquely through the hilly landscape. Use a navigation system so You don’t miss the exact turn-off into the valley.
The key to the fortified church: As with almost all remote fortified churches in Transylvania, the gate is not simply open. To visit the interior of the complex, You have to find the key keeper. Usually, there is a small note with a phone number (often in Romanian or German) hanging on the main gate. Alternatively, it is worth asking respectfully at the direct neighbors of the fortress, often in house number 1 or the parsonage opposite. The local people are usually very helpful. A small donation for the maintenance of the church following the visit is always highly appreciated and helps directly with the preservation of this cultural heritage.
Urwegen is not a place for fast tourism. It is a place for explorers, for people who can embrace the silence and seek beauty in the imperfect. Take Your time to explore the valley on foot, speak with the few people You meet, and let the special atmosphere of this hidden jewel work its magic on You.
When the last snowfields in the Romanian Carpathians melt at the end of March and the first wildflowers bathe the valleys in a delicate green, Transylvania reveals its most authentic side. Forget the overcrowded Bran Castle or the classic Dracula myths. Transylvania in spring is a place of longing for true explorers, individual tourists, and lovers of rugged nature and centuries-old culture.
The late March and early April sun wakes the sleepy villages from their winter slumber. The air is still crisp, but the roads are free from the summer tourist crowds. Now is your chance to immerse yourself in authentic rural life and experience the warm hospitality of the locals unfiltered.
While Viscri is now well-known to many, you will still find absolute tranquility in villages like Mălâncrav (Malmkrog) or Cincșor (Kleinschenk). These fortified churches, built by the Transylvanian Saxons, sit majestically in the rolling hills. In spring, you can stroll for hours through the old apple orchards here without meeting a single soul.
For nature lovers, the Apuseni Nature Park is an absolute must. The karst mountain range is riddled with caves, gorges, and dense forests. A hike to the Cetățile Ponorului (Fortresses of Ponor) is particularly impressive right now, as the meltwater rivers give enormous power to the waterfalls and underground cave systems.
Admittedly, Sibiu is no longer a secret. But the Astra Museum, located just outside the city and one of the largest open-air museums in Europe, truly unleashes its magic on a clear spring day. Strolling between the historic mills and crooked wooden houses on the lakeshore is wonderfully peaceful.
Romanian cuisine is just like the landscape: wild, hearty, and heartwarming. After a long spring hike, there is nothing better than stopping for a bite and tasting the real Transylvania:
To explore these Transylvania insider tips on your own, a rental car is essential. The main roads are very well maintained, but to get to the truly untouched places, you will also have to drive on gravel roads. Use small guesthouses (pensiunea) instead of large hotels; here, your money flows directly into the local community, and you will get the best insider tips.
Pack your hiking boots, download offline maps, and embark on your Transylvanian adventure. Drum bun (Have a good trip)!
Now it’s your turn: Have you ever traveled to Romania or are you currently planning your first trip there? What is your personal insider tip for individual tourists? Be sure to let me know in the comments below – I look forward to hearing from you!