In October, when the morning fog hangs in the valley, the most important time in the gardening year begins for me. While others are putting their beds to rest for the winter, I am putting hope for next year into the ground: Winter garlic.
Many ask me: “Why do you plant garlic just before the frost?”
As a hobby gardener in Romania, I have learned that the timing determines the size of the bulb. Here is my guide, based on the clay soils of Transylvania, but applicable to any organic garden.
The Biological Logic: Why October?
October is not chosen by chance. I am using a biological mechanism here called vernalization. For garlic (Allium sativum) to form large bulbs next year, it needs a cold stimulus.
If planted from mid to late October, the following happens:
- Root Formation: The soil still holds residual warmth. The clove forms strong roots but no green shoots yet (which would freeze in winter).
- Winter Dormancy: The plant rests beneath the frost.
- Spring Boost: As soon as the soil thaws, this garlic has a huge head start over cloves planted in spring. It makes optimal use of winter moisture.
🌿 At a Glance: Key Data for Cultivation
- Planting Period: October 15th to early November (before permanent ground frost).
- Planting Depth: 5 to 7 cm (deeper than in spring!).
- Planting Distance: 10-15 cm in the row, 25 cm between rows.
- Location: Full sun, no waterlogging.
Guide: How I Proceed Step by Step
Planting garlic is precise craftsmanship. If you are sloppy here, you will only harvest tiny cloves. This is how I do it in my garden:
1. Preparing the Planting Material
I never use garlic from the supermarket (often chemically treated against sprouting or from the wrong climate zone). I use seed garlic from the region.
Important: I only break open the bulbs immediately before planting. I choose only the large outer cloves. The small inner cloves go into the kitchen – if you plant small, you harvest small. The protective skin of the clove must not be damaged.
2. Preparing the Soil
Garlic is a moderate feeder but dislikes fresh manure. I loosen the soil deeply with a digging fork to prevent waterlogging. Waterlogging in winter is the death of any garlic clove (risk of rot).
3. The Right Technique for Planting
I draw seed furrows or make individual holes. The clove goes into the earth with the root end facing down.
- The Mistake: Many press the clove too hard into the ground. This compacts the soil directly under the root and inhibits growth. I place it in gently and cover loosely with soil.
4. Frost Protection through Mulching
Since we can have harsh winters here in Cincu, I cover the bed after planting with a thin layer of leaves or straw. This protects against bare frosts and keeps the soil alive.
Patience is the Main Ingredient
Once the cloves are in the ground, the work is done. Winter garlic is the most rewarding crop for us gardeners. It grows while we sit inside by the warm stove. Harvesting usually takes place in July, when two-thirds of the leaves have turned yellow.
Whoever picks up the spade now in October will be rewarded in summer with a taste that money can’t buy.
